Monthly Archive for November, 2009

The Importance of Knife Skills

Citrus Reflection

The older I get, the more I realize how little I know. I am not talking about an overall naivety but the discovery of new skills, techniques, and just factoids that I would absolutely be considered elementary in. What’s important about this discovery is not how it should make me feel (stupid), but how it actually makes me feel – enlightened.

In stark contrast, I encounter people every day that would rather do something wrong than admit they really don’t know how and just ask for help. We are all adults here and I have personally never laughed or chastised someone who asked for help. What’s the problem then? Pride? I think it’s much more. It’s a level of unfounded confidence that fools people into realizing how little they know.

A couple of weeks ago it occurred to me that my roommates were using the balloon whisk attachment for the KitchenAid to make their banana and pumpkin spice breads. They were using a tool meant to whisk and introduce air into cream and eggs to mix thick batters for bread. What really struck me about this is the confidence they carried with them week after week, mistake after mistake. They have clearly never used a standmixer but when it came time to pick among four attachments, they considered the balloon whisk the best bet. Let’s put aside the food science aspect of things (how whisking and mixing differ) and even common sense and you still have a glaring problem. Rather than asking me (the owner of the mixer) how to do something, they just did it. It doesn’t end there. Not only were they doing it wrong, but they were so confident in their choice that they could not even imagine the choice being wrong. And that’s the real issue here.

I had some guests over for dinner a few months ago and we were splitting up tasks. I asked one of them if she knew how to use a knife and she replied as if she was insulted – “Pshhhaw, duh!” I was not sure how to respond so I handed her the cutting board, food, and knife and let her at it. Even with my back to her, I could tell by her comments and the sound the knife was making against the food and board that at the very least she was damaging my knife and at the very worse was going to seriously injure herself. Why didn’t she just ask for help?

I tell these stories because admitting you don’t know something and learning how to use a tool or perform a task correctly helps everyone. Let’s talk about knife skills, perhaps one of the most important in the kitchen and certainly the only common thread in every dish you make, whether it’s stir fry, fresh pasta, or a poached fish. Why is it then, that cooks put so little investment in their knives? Let’s ignore the physical knife for now (that will have to wait for another post), and focus on the use of a knife.

It does not take much to learn how to use a knife properly. And why wouldn’t you want to make the investment? A knife is a sharpened shard of sharp metal. It can stab you and cut you.  You would not pick up a gun you were unfamiliar with without some proper instruction first, would you? Then why is a knife any different?  If there’s one kitchen skill you want to learn how to master – it’s the knife. Use a saucer the wrong way – I don’t care. But if you are going to be in the kitchen, learn how to use a knife, for godsake.

So, where do you start? Well first find someone to teach you. I don’t care if it’s your neighbor or Food Network (thanks Alton Brown). You can’t learn unless you ask. Then practice, practice, practice. Cook. A lot. Often. That’s the only way you’ll get better. Yesterday, my friend Prakash, asked me how I cut an onion. So we spent 10 minutes discussing it in great detail over chat. An onion. Yeah, not how to filet a fish or carve a chicken. An onion. He asked me how I learned and I admitted I actually Googled it and watched videos on YouTube and various tutorial sites. Lame? Maybe a little, but I’d rather be embarrassed and eating than smug and in the hospital.

Next time you are in the kitchen with someone, watch them use a knife. Does it look like they have any control of their knife or is there a nervousness in their movement? Do they cut with certainty and deliberateness or is there hesitation. Is food sliding around? Is there slippage? If they seem like a pro and you could use some tips, ask for help. Or if they need it, offer them your advice.

Patagonia R2 Jacket

I am a huge fan of technical clothing and find them especially irresistible when they actually look pretty good as well as being able to keep me warm and dry. The problem with the cold weather industry is the same that afflicts many other markets – excess. Super sized drinks and fries, 5 layer Motherlode cakes, and Turkduckens keep this country fat and sweaty.

I have trimmed down and cut back in my aspects of my life. No, not to conserve energy or money. And no, not because less is more. But because enough is all you need. That’s why I really love the Patagonia R2 jacket. I am not sure the women’s design is the same (I suspect it is), but for the purposes of this review I will only discuss the men’s.

The R2 is a slim fit (as opposed to regular) which means it’s closer-fitting. It hugs the body. It’s not a baselayer so you can still fit say a thermal or long sleeve shirt underneath but if you are sizing correctly, you should not be wearing anything thicker underneath.  It’s made of Patagonia’s blend of polyester which is incredible soft and has great breathability.

The R2 refers to Regulator Insulation which is a proprietary Patagonia system. The lowest (R1) is meant to be a baselayer and the clothing gets thicker and warmer as you move on up. For Central Coast weather, the R2 is perfect for me. It is slim, but not restrictive. It has great features like snug cuffs to keep out the wind, protected flap in the neck area so the cold zipper doesn’t rub, zippered hand warmers and a chest pocket. And for you green readers out there, it’s 100% recyclable through the Common Threads Recycling Program.

Besides all these technical features, the jacket just feels right. It fits great over a polo or t-shirt and keeps me warm without making me sweat. Santa Barbara weather hovers around 70 and while that’s a perfect temp for me. The problem comes when it’s a few degrees colder. It’s too cold to be comfortable but once you put on a jacket, you heat up really rapidly and next thing you know, you’re hot again. The R2 is just right.

As for looks, I think the jacket looks great. It has a nice fuzzy texture that is visually appealing and always gets me compliments. I have a lot of jackets, maybe too many, but the R2 is one I always reach for when I am getting dressed in the morning.

Calibrating Your Oven

Inside the Oven

Ovens aren’t perfect. There are a lot of factors involved but if you’ve lived in your house for at least six months, you should be an expert on the idiosyncrasies of your oven. If a cookie gives a baking time of 12 – 16 minutes, you might always pull it at 12 while others may leave it to 16. I like to aim somewhere down the middle. My friend built a new house and a kitchen he calls “Kitchen Stadium.”  It’s quite impressive but every time I cook there, I have to relearn their oven which he claims is off by 50 degrees. This is an $8k range. Unbelievable. Oh, eight grand buys you two ovens actually. They’re both off.

Recently I read a post on eGullet about how ovens in professional kitchen were off and it made me think I better figure out what mine

So last night I took out an analog oven thermometer and set my oven to 350F. Then when the preheat light and sound came on, I checked the thermometer. It read about 325F. I thought wow, my oven is off by 25 degrees! I took out my Polder digital thermometer and stuck the probe in the oven and ran the wire out to the unit placed on top of my stove. I left it for about 10 minutes and came back. Now it read 367. My analog thermometer confirmed.

Adjusting my oven took about 10 seconds flat. I just hold down both the hour up and hold down buttons then press up and down for 5 degree increments. I couldn’t get –17 obviously, so I did –15. Then I tested it again and it was 352. Close enough!

Things I learned:

  • When your oven says it’s preheated, it really isn’t. Give it another 5 to 10 minutes.
  • When you open the door to your oven, the temperature escape. We all knew this but I was surprised at how much – 20 degrees in 5 seconds. More or less depending on how big of an opening.
  • Most ovens are probably off and that really affects your cooking. Use a thermometer!

Bicycle Touring in SB

Chase

All the years I’ve lived here, I have noticed a large amount of touring bikes in Goleta and Santa Barbara. Why is that? I suppose a lot of people do the Pacific Coast route so they stop by SB. The others must be just commuters who like to carry a lot of stuff. Does anyone else know if the number of touring cyclists in SB is disproportionately high?

Bouquet Garni Redux

IMG_9167

I’ve been cooking soups for a long time and one thing that is key to practically every one (at least from Thomas Keller’s books) is the bouquet garni. In French, it means “garnished bouquet” and consists of bay leaf, peppercorns, parsley, thyme and the dark green outer leaves of a stalk of leeks. These are all ingredients I have on hand, except for the leeks, but the recipes usually cal for them so I have them too. One thing you should know is that the dark green outer leaves of leeks are almost never used except for the bouquet.

Anyway, the issues with using any sort of herbs in you soup is when you simmer liquids for a long time, it disintegrates any herbs you put in it and then it becomes a chore to pull them out and it can make you soup look cloudy or dirty.

I’ve seen two ways that cooks make bouquet garni’s. One way is to use the large leek leaves as a wrapper, creating a satchel for the herbs to sit inside. You tie this with string or a narrow strip of the leaf itself. Bad idea.  The other way is to use cheesecloth. This works except I don’t like the idea of reusing cheesecloth and it’s not cheap.

A few years ago I came up with what I feel is the best solution. First, I put the leek leaves separately. I just throw them in the pot. The leaves tend to be so thick and hearty that they still are in one piece when I am ready to extract them. For the rest of the herbs and peppercorns, I place them inside a tea basket. I get them from Upton Tea, which happens to be my favorite tea shop. You may be asking: do any particles leak out and can the plastic stand up to the heat?

Take a minute to think about the original application for this basket – brewing tea. Black tea is brewed at 212 F which is the temperature water boils. Soup is mostly water so the highest temp it may be is 212 F. We are not making oil soup, afterall. Second, the mesh is superfine. Nothing leaks out. Again, it’s made for brewing tea, and some teas have very fine leaves.

When the soup is done, I just fish it out and throw away the leek leaves. The basket takes 5 seconds to clean under running water.